It’s strange to describe a Nebbiolo as ‘crushable’. Wines from this tannic variety, responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco, often need many years – and then hours in the decanter – before they even begin to soften up.
Valtellina Rosso is a different story. Imagine you drive the length of Lake Como, directly north of Milan. You reach the northern tip, then head east for ten miles or so. That’s when you’ll hit the steep slopes Valtellina. At points, it’s less than five kilometers from the Swiss border as the crow flies. In other words, almost as far north as you can get in Italy. And high up in the valley.
This might explain why the Valtellina Rossos are often so much lighter than their Piedmont counterparts. But what they lack – and ‘lack’ may be the wrong word – in intensity, they make up for in charm and sheer drinkability. The ‘Tei’ (2018) by Sandro Fay is exactly this: refreshing berry fruits, delicate rose petals, liquorice, white pepper. Soft chalky tannins. The sort of wine that leaves you quickly reaching for a second, third, fourth glass. Which is surely a sign of success.
Purchased in VinoNueva, Miami. $23.
Great note, thanks. This definitely piqued my interest to taste a cool(er) climate Nebbiolo. Best of luck with blog.
Author
Thank you! Yup, it’s a good one.