If you have any interaction with somm circles, you may have heard the term WAG. It’s a three letter acronym (TLA) that stands for Weird Ass Grape, referring to rare and unusual varieties.
This week’s wine of the week is a Pelaverga, a WAG. It’s used by a handful of producers, mostly in the commune of Verduno which sits at the northern tip of the Barolo region, though obviously not labelled as Barolo since the wine isn’t from the Nebbiolo grape. Ours is made by the respected producer Fratelli Alessandria.
Wine students of a certain level sometimes avoid WAGs. The likelihood of Pelaverga showing up in an exam is about as high as Pizza Hut pouring DRC by the glass.
So why pay attention?
First, and most obvious, this is delicious. It’s relatively light, very fragrant, and incredibly fresh. Fans of wine that ooze with black pepper (“rotundone” if you prefer the technical term) will be delighted. It oozes! This is layered on fresh, sherbet-like red cherry and strawberry, and a little pine. It’s soft, delicate, and the peppery flavors linger. Serve slightly chilled.
Second, and less obviously, it screams Piedmont. This is interesting. Many of us know what the famous wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and so on – taste like by now. The common denominators of the best examples – zesty freshness; a particular complexity and dryness – could be attributed to the place. Adding another variety to our tasting memory helps is to understand that more thoroughly.
Purchased at Azul Spirits & Wine, Sunset Harbour. $34.99.
