Macchialina picked up a significant wine list award last year. We explore the story behind that.
The Miami restaurant world has been making headlines in the past 12 months. With a small hint of condescension, national newspapers have called the city an “unexpectedly strong destination for intrepid food lovers.” They’ve pointed to the recent arrival of famous New York outposts as the “the beginnings of a dining golden era,” perhaps leaving readers to wonder how we all managed beforehand.
While the new arrivals – and the spotlight! – are both welcome developments, it definitely wasn’t Planet of the Apes down here beforehand. In fact, some of the best places to eat in Miami have been making waves for a while. And those waves are partly due to innovative wine lists.
In November, Macchialina, a favorite Italian restaurant among in-the-know South Beach locals, received the award for Best Contemporary Wine List by Gambero Rosso, one of Italy’s most important wine magazines. The award ceremony took place during the publication’s annual walk-around tasting, which took place at Miami’s Ironside this year. Managing Partner of Macchialina, Jacqueline Pirolo, and her brother and Head Chef, Michael Pirolo, collected the trophy. There were cheers from onlookers, but few surprised faces. Gambero Rosso had done their homework.
Behind the wine
In February, I met with Jacqueline Pirolo at Macchialina. At 3pm, it was unusually bright and quiet compared to the usual buzz inside the restaurant, which opens for dinner service only and always seems to be full. My task was to find out what it takes to build an award-winning wine list that lasts the test of time in a city like this: big, vibrant, ever-changing Miami.
Energy, an open mind, and willingness to experiment would seem to be the answer.
Appropriate, then, that all this started with a bottle of fizzy red wine, the often-overlooked Lambrusco. “I was on a visit home on a college break and went out for dinner with my brother Fabrizio,” Pirolo says, “We popped open a bottle of Lambrusco – the first time I’d ever had it – with a salumi board. I was wowed.”
“Yes, the pairing is amazing, and that’s what was so fun, but it was moreso the moment of realizing the conviviality that happens when you open this bottle of wine.”
She returned to her small college town, visiting every liquor store in search of Lambrusco, but without much luck. Years later, Pirolo ensures that Lambrusco features proudly on the Macchialina wine list.
Indigenous grapes, half bottles
When I ask about what she is most proud of about the current list, Pirolo mentions two things: The focus on indigenous grapes and the half-bottle program.
Italy is home to hundreds of different grape varieties. Even seasoned wine professionals and self-proclaimed geeks can be forgiven for getting lost in a serious Italian list. Macchialina’s menu is full of them: Prie Blanc, Ansonica, or Monica, anyone? “Italy is a complex creature. It’s a bit intimidating even for people who are into wine,” Pirolo admits. I nod.
This was one reason for introducing the half-bottle program. Guests can choose to buy almost any wine on the list in a half-bottle carafe, something that the Macchialina staff pushed to expand from the original small half-bottle list. This makes it easier for guests to taste wines before buying, and also commit to smaller servings of a variety they haven’t heard of before. “It’s great if you have commitment issues…” Pirolo jokes. I nod again.
Macchialina and the Natural Wine World
One useful key on the menu reads “SOBN”: Sustainable, Organic, Biodynamic, Natural. Wines are marked as appropriate, indicating which are more likely to be off-piste in style (natural) versus those that are a little more conventional. It also signals the importance of working with mindful producers, or “farmers who are paying attention to their practices,” as she describes it.
In some ways, these category indications put the restaurant in an unusual position. In recent years, the natural wine movement has taken off in Miami, but Macchialia doesn’t market itself as a natural wine destination. So, is it part of that movement? “Yes… We were pouring natty wines in 2012, but not telling anyone,” Pirolo says, adding, “but the wines still have to taste balanced. They can’t be overtly funky. That’s what guests love about it.”
Coming soon…
For those who enjoy well-made, fresh and interesting Italian wines (and the food! The Macchialina food!) here comes good news: The current restaurant will be expanding into more of the hostel space this year. This winter, a second location will open in Little River: A deli, New York pizza by the slice, and, of course, plenty of Italian wine. It’s sure to make headlines, too.
Macchialina is located at 820 Alton Road, Miami Beach. Reservations can be made through the website. Wine is also available for retail purchases from the restaurant, which also operates a wine club. For nearby wine shops, check out our South Beach guide.
Looking for even more places to eat and drink in Miami? Jacqeline Pirolo recommends Sonny’s Steak House, Paradis, NIU Kitchen, and Vinya.
