“It’s on Española Way. But it’s not very… you know… Española Way.”
Late last year, founders of the much-loved Mandolin Aegean Bistro (Design District) opened a new venture in South Beach. Mandolin, admired for its fresh and delicious Greek menu, is also known for its calming atmosphere: A small slice of Santorini in the heart of the city.
You might expect, then, for the South Beach venture to be nestled into a residential neigborhood. Somewhere (relatively) quiet like South of Fifth would make sense, or perhaps Sunset Harbour. These are well-known areas for quality, independently owned, restaurants.
But no: The Drexel is on the main corner in the middle of tourist hotspot Española Way, and minutes away from loud Ocean Drive with its supersized cocktails. But rather than blending into its chaotic environment, The Drexel defiantly relaxing and minimal: Think simple wicker chairs, a long marble bar, and pot plants all over.
Memorable dishes
The food is a little different, too. The fresh, high-quality ingredients are crafted into tasty and interesting dishes. The wood roasted eggplant is garnished with flavorful pesto, mint and lemon.
A range of creative meat and fish dishes – including specials – are available, and my dining companion was close to licking the plate after his New Zealand Lamb had disappeared from the plate. It also offers a pizza and pasta menu for those looking for a more low key dinner. Pizzas are fluffy, the (presumably) homemade tomato sauce full of flavor. This is all accompanied by friendly service.
Wine at The Drexel
South Beach wine lovers will be pleased to learn that the wine list is excellent: small, but thoughtful. It gives space to boutique producers, appearing to favour those with responsible farming practices.
This includes some well-known names. That biodynamically farmed Raventos is one of Spain’s top Cava producers is hardly a trade secret. Likewise, Chateau Leoube is an outstanding Provence producer, known for its high-quality dry organic rosés. Both of these are available by the glass.
There are also some surprises, like the slight sweet rosé pet-nat from the Loire that is an ideal pairing for the strawberry dessert. Our Juliénas – from one of the lesser-known Beaujolais Crus – was structured and savory, with restrained crushed red fruit.
A retreat for wine lovers close to Ocean Drive? We might not have seen it coming, but it seems to be here.
The Drexel is at 1436 Drexel Ave, as the road meets Española. Find its menu online.
Not ready to go home after? Water Lion Wine + Alchemy is just a ten-minute walk from The Drexel.
Sarah is a freelance wine educator, writer and events host, based in South Beach. She holds the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits and is a current Master of Wine student.
