Refreshing and elegant are two words that you probably don’t associate with Pinotage, but the expression by Southern Right might change your mind.
The story of Pinotage began in 1924 when Abraham Izak Perold, a viticulturalist from Stellenbosch University, crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsault (then known as Hermitage, explaining how Pinotage earned its name). But it wasn’t until 1961 that the first Pinotage was released commercially, the 1959 Lanzerac.
In the decades that followed, Pinotage gained popularity for its fruity, full-bodied style. Some, heavily oaked, became known as “coffee Pinotage” for their mocha notes.
But this style isn’t for everyone. The Oxford Companion to Wine (OCW), edited by Jancis Robinson, complains: “Many examples are indeed too powerful and jammy, with the excessiveness of a certain type of ambition taking its toll.”
Changing perceptions
Southern Right is a little different.
“I founded Southern Right in 1994, with the specific goal of specializing in Pinotage”, says Anthony Hamilton Russell. He and his wife Olive also own Hamilton Russell Vineyards and Hamilton Russell Oregon. The two estates are known for their high-quality Pinot Noirs and cool climate Chardonnays.
“At the time Pinotage divided opinion and had many detractors”, says Anthony. “Most Pinotage aimed for an aesthetic which I felt was a little misguided: Big, super-ripe, alcoholic, often heavily wooded, warmer climate wines. We wanted to re-define the grape for fine wine lovers with a style very different to this”, he says.
Cool climate Pinotage
The Southern Right wines come from the cool, coastal Hemel-en-Aarde Valley which is best known for its pure, elegant Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The vineyards are just three kilometers from the ocean, which is a popular viewing spot for the Southern Right whales that lend their name to the wine.
“I felt that as an early ripening grape we could elevate Pinotage by planting it in a cool area and heavy, clay rich soil, which in our experience gave its close relative, Pinot Noir, a more refined classical expression”, Anthony says.
This is certainly clear from tasting the wine, which has vibrant aromas of crushed cranberry and raspberry, laced with subtle clove, as well as the hint of agave that I often associate with Pinotage. Its tannins are soft, and acidity bright and zippy. It has a relatively modest 13.5% alcohol. In other words: refreshing, fragrant, and elegant.
“We wanted to make it in a style that encouraged detractors to re-think their prejudice”, Anthony adds.
For me? Mission accomplished.
Southern Right Pinotage is available at Mr D Wine Merchant in Miami. You can also find the refreshing Sauvignon Blanc at The Vine Post in Juno Beach.
