Here’s a Miami wine waiting to happen: South African Chenin Blanc. It fits the bill perfectly. Plenty of fresh orchard fruit and bags of zippy acidity. Ergo, delightfully refreshing but never thin.
I was therefore pleased to find a bottle from one of my favorite South African producers, Johan Reyneke, in Vinya Key Biscayne last weekend (among other gems). This one has alluring aromas: quince, ripe red apple, yellow peach and beeswax, and its mouthwatering acidity wraps fleshy fruit. Tasty, complex, and all for $24.
I was lucky enough to meet Johan, and visit the vineyards, in Stellenbosch last year. It was winter. The herd of cows were busy fertilizing the soil, and we were busy learning about Reynekan Biodynamics (my term) which seemed to hang off the principle that healthy soils = healthy vines. Hence the cows. And the ducks, which control the snails. And so on.
We also learned how the former philosophy student – and regular surfer – nearly went bankrupt after purchasing houses for his workers, paying for their kids’ education, then realizing than a small wine farm was not quite enough to sustain it all. A chance encounter with Nelson Mandela helped to save him.
My long-held theory is that interesting, original people make the most exciting wines. This Chenin is a case in point.
Here’s a selfie I took of the group. I regret the size of my head, but selfies are hard.
Reyneke Vinehugger Chenin Blanc 2020 was purchased for $24 in Vinya, Key Biscayne.
Sarah is a freelance wine educator, writer and events host, based in South Beach. She holds the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits and is a current Master of Wine student.
