This week’s wine of the week, the Poligonos Malbec 2018, is a delicious example of a fresh and expressive Mendoza Malbec…
Malbec is more complicated than you might think. Here’s how we typically frame it: The French one (Cahors, a bit more rustic) and the Argentinian one (mostly Mendoza, riper and glossier).
But it’s not that simple. Argentina is the fifth largest wine producing country in the world, and 70% of its wine comes from Mendoza. In other words, it’s big. And, being located at the foothills of the Andes mountains, which provide the region with a range of altitudes and a complicated mix of soils, it’s diverse too.
You can up drive from a vineyard on the valley floor, and in the space of around 1km, or five minutes, watch the temperature meter on your car drop by six degrees Fahrenheit – and that’s during the day.
All this to say that the region is the source of a huge range of expressive wines that are both delicious to drink – and interesting for the wine nerds among us.
One style of Mendoza Malbec comes from high altitude – cool, but intensely sunny – sites, and is made without any new oak. The result is a hugely diverse range of fresh, expressive wines. Zuccardi, based the Uco Valley, is one major producer making wines like this.
The Poligonos Malbec 2018, made with grapes from the south of the Uco Valley, is a great place to start. It’s quiet to begin with, but after 20 minutes or so in the glass (or decanter, if you prefer), it comes alive with fresh blueberry, violets and even cantaloupe melon. It’s juicy, silky smooth, and refreshing.
Purchased for $28.99 at Happy Wines, Calle Ocho.
