This week’s wine of the week is a versatile Palo Cortado Sherry with 20 years of age.
Sherry is possibly one of the most misunderstood wine categories. Some may think these wines are only represented by the super sweet Harvey’s Bristol Cream or Pedro Ximénez Sherries on the market. While others equate drinking Sherry with their grandmother in a bygone era. Whatever you think about this wine from the south of Spain, if it hasn’t encouraged you to try more Sherry – throw all those assumptions out the window.
These fortified wines from Jerez are actually the most versatile wines in the world. From the driest Fino to the sweetest Pedro Ximénez, Sherry runs the gamut. While the process to age these fine wines is complicated (and for another post), the basics are these: some Sherries age “biologically” under a layer of yeast called “flor,” while others age in an oxidative environment without the presence of flor. These two different ways of aging Sherry create varying flavors and textures in each wine. The flor adds more bready characteristics and keeps the wine a pale golden color. The oxidation creates an amber color with more roasted nuttiness and “oaky” flavors.
To complicate this even more, some Sherries are aged both ways. This gives them their own unique personality. A combination of these characteristics! You may recognize Amontillado and Palo Cortado Sherry as part of this group.
Tasting the Wellington Palo Cortado Sherry
This “Wellington” is special for several reasons. The first being that it is a Palo Cortado, meaning it started out undergoing biological aging, and ended up in oxidative aging. The other special quality is the age. Most Sherries are not labeled with an age due to the fact that they are multi-vintage wines blended and aged for an average of about four to eight years, depending on the style. If a Sherry has an average age of 20 years, it can be labeled a “VOS,” vinum optimum signatum, or as we say, “very old Sherry.” These wines are subject to extremely strict regulations and are considered prized Sherries of the house.
When tasting Sherry, you should always enjoy it in a white wine glass. Palo Cortado Sherry should be served slightly chilled.
This wine is a beautiful light amber color, and has aromas of toasted hazelnuts, caramel, bruised green apple, and a hint of smokiness. The nose is reminiscent of the sweet smell of an antique wooden drawer. There are treasures to be discovered here!
In the mouth, it is dry and refreshing, smooth and nutty, with a salty/bitter finish that keeps the complexity of the flavors lingering for a long time.
Sherry is a flexible pairing wine. You can serve this one as anything from an aperitif to an accompaniment to any salty tapas, or even a Brussels sprout and nut salad topped with fried chicken.
You can find this bottle at Happy Wine Calle Ocho for $26.99.
Jacqueline is a professional wine + travel writer, radio host, wine columnist, and consultant based in Miami, FL.
She is the monthly “Vino” columnist for Biscayne Times newspaper, a guest host covering the drinks segment on Linda Gassenheimer’s podcast show, “Food, News, and Views,” and Star Wine List’s Miami Ambassador.
Jacqueline is a Certified Sherry Wine Specialist & WSET 3.
