Sarah discovers a new Franciacorta favorite in Barone Pizzini.
A recent tasting of Franciacorta wines, hosted by the region’s marketing body, revealed exciting diversity among these sparkling wines made in the traditional method, much like Champagne.
The region is just over an hour west of Milan (or maybe less if you are a particularly fast Vespa driver). Although the climate is fairly cool, it’s less chilly than Champagne. Ergo, expect slightly riper fruit and a reduced need for generous dosage – most have just a few grams of sugar.
Another interesting fact is that the region is shifting heavily towards organic production. Around 65% of producers either working organically or currently in conversion. This is huge compared to the rest of the world: Most estimates suggest that only 5-6% of vineyard land globally is farmed organically.
Barone Pizzini: A stand-out
Of the 12 very good wines tasted, one in particular stood out to me. Barone Pizzini’s Extra Brut 2014 had bags of energy and crunchy, mouth filling, tangy green apple fruit. It was a “pour me another one” wine (literally, since it was Jacqueline’s birthday and I’d therefore given myself the afternoon off.)
A week later, I discovered the same producer’s Animante cuvee (non-vintage blend) on the list at Doma in Wynwood. This had the same vibrant, energetic character, and generous but fresh orchard fruit. The bottle did not last long on the table.
For those who are fans of winery details: Barone Pizzini was founded in 1870 by the Pizzini family. According to its tech sheet, it was the first winery in the region to promote biodiversity in the vineyards. Although I cannot verify, I do find that vineyards in this method – plants, animals, healthy soils – have a tendency to produce more personality-filled and energetic wines, so it does make sense.
The price makes sense, too. Happy Wine Coconut Grove has this at the attractive price of $39.99. It also stocks several of the winery’s vintage wines.
